Short Hike #5: Allegheny Portage Railroad

Looking up Inclined Plane #6 from Skew Arch Bridge
(All photos mine unless indicated otherwise)

I just finished a short vacation and I wanted to do a post of something a little different I did last week. So, for today's post, I'm highlighting the Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site in Blair and Cambria Counties, Pennsylvania. The Allegheny Portage Railroad was not a railroad in the traditional sense, though. Composed of 10 inclined railways and a series of mule-drawn rail lines, the 36-mile line was built from 1831-1834 using manual labor, the final link in the Pennsylvania Canal system connecting the Delaware River in Philadelphia to the Ohio River in Pittsburgh.

Old Portage Railroad by George W. Storm (1839)
(Public domain)

The Allegheny Mountains are part of a nearly-unbroken barrier ridge stretching from southern Tennessee to just southwest of Albany, New York. The Cumberland Mountains are the southern extension of this, while the Catskill Escarpment and Helderberg Escarpment are the northern portion. While not particularly high in most areas, this ridge, combined with the Shawangunk/Kittatinny/Blue Mountain ridge and Blue Ridge Mountains to the east, formed a significant barrier to westward travel in the first third of the 19th Century due to the lack of remotely-flat routes between Albany and Alabama. No real roads crossed the mountain range in this area, with rugged wagon trails being the only way across.

After the 1825 opening of the Erie Canal in New York and with the construction of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal in Maryland, the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania believed that freight and passenger traffic would begin to bypass Pennsylvania entirely. Thus, funding was provided to create a canal across the Commonwealth. The Allegheny Mountains presented a massive challenge. From Altoona in the east, the vertical ascent to the ridgeline was 1,399 feet, and all cargo then needed to descend 1,172 feet to Johnstown in the west. Steam-driven inclined planes, 5 on each side of the ridge, powered the vertical ascent, while boats were pulled between the inclines on mule-driven railroads. Included in these mule-drawn rail lines was the 900-foot Staple Bend Tunnel near Johnstown, the first railroad tunnel in the United States. Once operational, the canals and Portage Railroad reduced a 23-day trip across Pennsylvania to 4 days.

Model of segmented canal boats used on the Portage Railroad at visitor center

During a 20 year period between the mid-1830s and mid-1850s, the Portage Railroad was a driving force behind the country's westward expansion, carrying people west and crops east. But as the portage railroad rendered wagon travel across the mountains obsolete, the Portage Railroad and canals were put out of business by the Pennsylvania Railroad in the 1850s, shortening travel time from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh from 5 days to 13 hours (all historic information from Wikipedia and the Historic Site's resources).

I honestly didn't plan to take a hike when passing through this area, nor did I plan to spend more than half an hour at the site. But, between the visitor center and the 1.25 mile hike I took down to a historic bridge on the property, I was here for nearly 90 minutes. Time well spent, in my opinion. If I had another few hours, I would have driven a few miles west to visit the Staple Bend Tunnel, which can be reached with a 4-mile round-trip hike. But since I didn't, that will have to wait for another day.

A visit to the Allegheny Portage Railroad begins at the visitor center, located next to the parking lot. The visitor center contains several displays explaining the railroad's history, as well as a 20-minute introductory film, which I recommend watching to learn the historical background of the Portage Railroad. The historic site is free to visit.

Operating model of Inclined Plane #6

Once you're done and have a map, a boardwalk leads from the visitor center to the site of Inclined Plane #6, the uppermost plane on the east side of the summit. When the Portage Railroad was abandoned, all rails and equipment were scrapped; most of what exists today is reconstructed.

At the south end of the boardwalk, there is an overlook with interpretive signage. This was the upper end of Incline #6. A short section of the incline and the engine house have been reconstructed.

Interpretive signage for engine house

The Portage Railroad is a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark 

The reconstructed engine house

Walking west past the engine house, there is a short reconstructed section of the summit mule-drawn segment

Looking east toward the engine house

Looking west along the former line

At this location is a historic tavern, the Samuel Lemon House, which served travelers on the Portage Railroad. The first floor of the Lemon House has been restored and is open to the public during park hours.

Interior of the Lemon House.

At this point, I haven't really done any hiking. That was about to change. Returning east past the engine house, we reach the upper end of the "6 to 10 trail", which follows the eastern part of the railroad. Roughly 0.4 mile and 200 feet downhill is a historic road bridge that formerly crossed the railroad. Known today as the "Skew Arch Bridge", this was the only bridge built to cross the Allegheny Portage Railroad.

This trail is generally marked with National Parks Service logos on posts and trees. Generally gravel, there are some sections of mowed grass. The trail runs alongside the old Incline #6, but the incline's path is apparent.

Incline #6 from the trail

After a short downhill hike, we reach an overlook and interpretive plaque for the skew arch bridge.

The Skew Arch Bridge, located in the median of Old US Route 22

But you can certainly get closer. A mowed grass path leading left from the above sign connects to a gravel road. The 6 to 10 Trail crosses this road and proceeds through the woods, but the easiest way to get to the bridge is by turning right on the road and walking right across the westbound lanes of Old 22 to the bridge in the median.

Looking along road from trail. Old US 22 is in the background.

Looking up Incline #6 from gravel road

The median has a couple of parking spaces for people who prefer to drive here, as well as a large monument to the Allegheny Portage Railroad, erected at the railroad's centennial in 1934. Each side of the stone monument contains a plaque.

The image here is identical to the historical drawing at the beginning of this post

To the east of the monument is the Skew Arch Bridge, which carried what later became the William Penn Highway and US Route 22 across the Portage Railroad. When this section of 22 was widened (date unknown, but pre-1958), the old bridge was preserved in the median. In the 1980s, this was bypassed again about a mile to the north and, as such, there isn't much traffic through here.

Looking east at bridge

Pennsylvania historic signage

Historic plaque on bridge

Looking under bridge 

Abutment detail

Looking northeast across brdige

Looking east from bridge

Looking west along Incline #6. Engine house is in the distance.

While the bridge was cool, I had other things to do, so back to my car I went. I thought I saw a trail marker across Old 22 near the bridge and I was correct. With short steep sections leading down to Old 22 on either side, it's much easier to cross at the gravel road.

Looking back toward bridge from where trail "officially" crosses Old 22

Looking along 6 to 10 Trail from Old 22

Retracing my steps along the 6 to 10 trail and boardwalk to my car, it was a relatively easy climb that was made much harder by the weather. Temperatures near 90 degrees and high humidity does not make for easy hiking.

Looking up the trail next to the incline

Near the top of the trail

Relieved to in my air-conditioned car, I drove on, continuing my travels. But I'll definitely be back to this area, preferably on a cooler day. Way more to see around here and I just didn't have the time to do it justice.

Getting Here

The Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site is located at the Gallitzin interchange on US Route 22, between Altoona and Ebensburg. GPS devices may try to have you enter via Old 22; while the access road shows on maps, it is closed to vehicles and the only access to the parking lot is from Old 22 or Gallitzin.

Resources

Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site: Official website
Wikipedia: Allegheny Portage Railroad: Historic background

A "Grand" Ascent up Mount Monadnock

View of the Green Mountains from the summit of Mount Monadnock
(All images mine)

Of all the mountains in the United States, none (supposedly) are climbed more than Mount Monadnock. Rankings generally place the mountain, also known as "Grand Monadnock", as the third most climbed in the world, behind only Tai Shan (China) and Mount Fuji (Japan). While it's busy with approximately 125,000 climbers each year, this is DEFINITELY a climb you should make, preferably at an off-peak time so you can take the scrambles at your own pace and find parking. Monadnock is, like its name suggests, a monadnock, standing 1,000 feet above any mountain peak within 30 miles and 2,000 feet above the surrounding land. The treeless summit has unobstructed views in all directions and you can supposedly see the Boston skyline on a very clear day (though I could not). This hike is 2.5-3 hours from Albany and it is about the furthest away I'm willing to do a major hike as part of a day trip.

Like some other trails on the site, I hesitated quite a bit with the ranking. At least 2/3 of the ascent and descent is on scrambles, but via the standard routes, it is not a particularly taxing nor long climb and you can't beat the views (starting less than halfway up). That being said, it's not easy and, if you're not used to serious mountain hikes, this is NOT a walk in the park. Your last reliable water source is a spigot outside the restrooms at the trailhead (I filled up my hydration pack here). You will need to use your hands, but you might need to use them less if you use poles (like I did). The trail is doable by most people in remotely decent shape.

Given its accessibility to a large population (we are less than 2 hours from downtown Boston, after all), this place gets a ton of people who aren't used to mountain hiking. This is probably a good place to mention some of the "novice" behaviors I examined on the mountain (and tell you not to do them). I saw a disturbing number of people hiking in flip-flops and several with only one half-liter bottle of water. Don't do that, please. Something with traction is a necessity on the scrambles and it's better to have too much water than too little (I think I went through 2.5 liters on the hike and it wasn't particularly warm).

The most popular trail, the White Dot Trail, ascends roughly 1,850 feet in its two mile trek to the summit and the park suggests allowing 2 hours to the summit. The White Cross Trail, which is an alternate to the White Cross Trail, ascends about the same (maybe a tad less because there's a little less unnecessary descent) in 2.2 miles and the park suggests allowing 2.5 hours to the summit. If you wanted a somewhat easier hike, you could park at the Old Toll Road trailhead and hike up the Old Halfway House and White Arrow trails, which ascend about 1,700 feet in 2.3 miles, with the park suggesting 2.5 hours each way. I do not know the facilities available at the Old Toll Road trailhead. Climbing up White Dot and descending White Cross took me approximately 90 minutes each way.


I arrived at Monadnock State Park around 9 AM on a clear Thursday morning in May. Having been on the road since 6:20 or so, I was eager to get hiking, as I had been in the car since stopping for breakfast around 6:30. Paying my entry fee, getting my equipment together, applying sunscreen/bug spray, and filling the hydration pack complete, I set on the trail around 9:15. If you needed supplies, they could be purchased at a store next to the parking lot (no idea how much the upcharge is). I decided that I would climb up the mountain using the White Dot Trail and return down via the White Cross Trail, which bypasses the steepest sections of White Dot.

Kiosk at trailhead

A small visitor center is located at the trailhead. Inside, there are maps, exhibits on wildlife, paintings, and literature, and a diorama of the mountain.

Back outside, it was time to start up.

Please don't disturb the cairns

The start of the trail, outside the visitor center

The first 2/3 of a mile from the visitor center is pretty gradual and by far the easiest part of the trail. Blazes (a white dot roughly 2 inches in diameter) are pretty infrequent, but

Typical scene from lower part of trail

The trail is rocky and there are several roots, typical of trails in Northern New England. At approximately 0.5 miles, the White Cross Trail splits off to the left. The White Dot Trail continues straight.

White Cross Trail junction

The next ~0.15 mile is more of the same

Roughly 2/3 of a mile from the trailhead, the Cascade Link breaks off to the right.

And then the fun starts.

Here we go...

The steepness begins with a rock staircase. Once we're at the top of that, it's time for the first real scramble.

The views begin partway up the first scramble.

Looking southeast from the scramble

This scramble eventually turns to stairs.

Did I really just climb up that?

While the rocks may be slick at times, they are the official trail. Please help to fight erosion by staying on the rocks.

There's a short level section between the first and second large scrambles. 

I'm a bit of a sucker for cool rock formations if you haven't figured that out yet

Turns out that cool rock formation is our next scramble...

Yup, that's a blaze

And up we go.

Looking back down

The top of the second scramble marks the halfway point to the top in terms of distance (and close to it in terms of elevation). It levels off for a bit and we're back to a dirt trail.

Whoa, we're halfway there...

A turn to the right (pay attention for blazes) leads us to the third scramble.

At the top of this scramble, the trees start to get thinner and the really spectacular views begin.

The trail levels off and continues across open rock. Various herd paths lead off to the sides, so make sure you follow the blazes and cairns.

Back into the woods for a bit, then time for another scramble.

As we get higher, the vegetation shifts to evergreens.

Then, we have our first extended exposed scramble of the day

Make sure you look back occasionally to enjoy the view.

From here to the summit (about half a mile), it's pretty much all exposed rock.

The cairns are quite useful up here.

Follow the cairns!

Hard turn to the right here 

A little over 1/4 mile to the summit, we reach the upper junction with the White Cross Trail. Turn RIGHT to continue climbing

Junction sign

Markings on the rock show where the trails go. Uphill is through that hole in the vegetation

There's a little bit of up and down, then the prize comes into clear view as we start the final ascent

Almost there!

 It doesn't get any easier in the last 1/4 mile. In fact, this bit may be harder, as you have to descend it, too.

But that view

The trail continues to be marked by cairns and blazes on the rock. There's a sharp turn to the right marked by a sign (facing the downhill direction) and arrows on the rock.

Looking back at the arrows. Straight back is downhill, uphill to the left

Up here was probably where I used my hands the most.

Soon enough, it's the last scramble before the summit

Last scramble!

And then, there's no more left to climb.

Summit benchmark located 10 feet south of the highest point of rock

Mount Monadnock, elevation 3,165 feet, is the highest point in Cheshire County, NH and one of the most isolated mountains in the United States. And the views show it.

Looking southwest

Looking east 

Looking northeast

Looking west from the summit

Looking southeast

Looking south. Wachusett Mountain is in the distance.

Looking southeast toward park headquarters

Once I got up here, I took a seat on the southeast side of the summit and enjoyed both the view and my hard-earned lunch. Two other groups were up here when I arrived, but both soon left and much of my half-hour on the summit was spent in solitude. That was a real treat: being the only person on top of the most-climbed mountain in the country to enjoy the excellent view. It was probably 50 degrees at the summit and there was a constant breeze.

Having had my fill of the view, I took one last walk around the summit as I prepared to head down.

Another look west toward the Green Mountains

Hey! That's where I live! But I don't carve the rocks.

Reference Mark #8. Didn't bother looking for the other 5 (reference markers 2 and 3 are unmarked drill holes)

Several of the trails down are marked by large spray-painted destinations. The White Dot Trail (and its alternate, the White Cross Trail), are marked only by blazes and small lettering saying "TO STATE PARK".

See that dot and cross in the center?

Down I go...

I started down the mountain. The scrambles were slow and hands were used. In a couple places, the butt-slide came in handy.

Make sure you remember to turn left at the sign following the first couple scrambles.

Instead of retracing my steps down the White Dot Trail, I descended on the White Cross Trail, advertised as having a less steep descent. I generally agree with that description.

Sign at upper Dot-Cross junction

The White Cross trail is not as wide and simple to follow as the White Dot trail, but it is still generally easy. We immediately plunge down into a stand of trees.

A typical blaze

 Not even 500 feet from the White Dot Trail, the yellow-blazed Smith Connecting Trail to Bald Rock branches off to the right. Straight leads back down to the parking lot.

Coming up the mountain, I was surprised at how dry the trails were. The White Cross Trail, on the other hand, was quite wet.

And the water got more frequent as I descended into thicker forest.

Though, I will say, it was not nearly as steep as the White Dot Trail. I didn't use my hands once I turned onto the White Cross Trail.

The descent may be a bit more gradual, but it's still the same general terrain. Views are a tad more obstructed, though.

As I got lower down the mountain, there were several places that had running water in the middle of the trail.

Still a few long scrambles over large slabs of rock going down.

As I got closer to the bottom, the amount of trees increased and the trail became less rocky.

Soon enough, I was back at the White Dot Trail.

Near the end of the White Cross Trail

The last half-mile back to the trailhead was a repeat of what I had coming in: gradual descent that didn't take too long.

Looking back up the White Cross trail

Before I knew it, I was back down. Follow the signs back to the parking lot.

4 hours after arriving at the park, I was back at my car and ready to head out. Now off to Keene to get a large post-hike meal and 

Getting Here

Monadnock State Park is located in Jaffrey, New Hampshire, roughly half an hour east of Keene, NH. The park headquarters and main trailhead are at the end of Poole Road, roughly 4 miles northwest of Jaffrey Village. The secondary Old Toll Road trailhead is located on NH Route 124 about 5 miles west of Jaffrey Village. Some services are available in Jaffrey, Rindge, and Peterborough. A full range of services, restaurants, and shopping is available in Keene (30 minutes) and Leominster, MA (45 minutes)

Admission Fee

Unlike most hikes I do, Monadnock State Park charges admission in order to pay staff and maintain the trails. The fees below are per-person and charged most of the year at the main trailheads.

Adults: $5

Children aged 6-12: $2

Children 5 and under: Free

Resources

Monadnock State Park: Official website

Monadnock Trails: Information on the various hiking trails up the mountain