Short Hike #5: Allegheny Portage Railroad

Looking up Inclined Plane #6 from Skew Arch Bridge
(All photos mine unless indicated otherwise)

I just finished a short vacation and I wanted to do a post of something a little different I did last week. So, for today's post, I'm highlighting the Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site in Blair and Cambria Counties, Pennsylvania. The Allegheny Portage Railroad was not a railroad in the traditional sense, though. Composed of 10 inclined railways and a series of mule-drawn rail lines, the 36-mile line was built from 1831-1834 using manual labor, the final link in the Pennsylvania Canal system connecting the Delaware River in Philadelphia to the Ohio River in Pittsburgh.

Old Portage Railroad by George W. Storm (1839)
(Public domain)

The Allegheny Mountains are part of a nearly-unbroken barrier ridge stretching from southern Tennessee to just southwest of Albany, New York. The Cumberland Mountains are the southern extension of this, while the Catskill Escarpment and Helderberg Escarpment are the northern portion. While not particularly high in most areas, this ridge, combined with the Shawangunk/Kittatinny/Blue Mountain ridge and Blue Ridge Mountains to the east, formed a significant barrier to westward travel in the first third of the 19th Century due to the lack of remotely-flat routes between Albany and Alabama. No real roads crossed the mountain range in this area, with rugged wagon trails being the only way across.

After the 1825 opening of the Erie Canal in New York and with the construction of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal in Maryland, the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania believed that freight and passenger traffic would begin to bypass Pennsylvania entirely. Thus, funding was provided to create a canal across the Commonwealth. The Allegheny Mountains presented a massive challenge. From Altoona in the east, the vertical ascent to the ridgeline was 1,399 feet, and all cargo then needed to descend 1,172 feet to Johnstown in the west. Steam-driven inclined planes, 5 on each side of the ridge, powered the vertical ascent, while boats were pulled between the inclines on mule-driven railroads. Included in these mule-drawn rail lines was the 900-foot Staple Bend Tunnel near Johnstown, the first railroad tunnel in the United States. Once operational, the canals and Portage Railroad reduced a 23-day trip across Pennsylvania to 4 days.

Model of segmented canal boats used on the Portage Railroad at visitor center

During a 20 year period between the mid-1830s and mid-1850s, the Portage Railroad was a driving force behind the country's westward expansion, carrying people west and crops east. But as the portage railroad rendered wagon travel across the mountains obsolete, the Portage Railroad and canals were put out of business by the Pennsylvania Railroad in the 1850s, shortening travel time from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh from 5 days to 13 hours (all historic information from Wikipedia and the Historic Site's resources).

I honestly didn't plan to take a hike when passing through this area, nor did I plan to spend more than half an hour at the site. But, between the visitor center and the 1.25 mile hike I took down to a historic bridge on the property, I was here for nearly 90 minutes. Time well spent, in my opinion. If I had another few hours, I would have driven a few miles west to visit the Staple Bend Tunnel, which can be reached with a 4-mile round-trip hike. But since I didn't, that will have to wait for another day.

A visit to the Allegheny Portage Railroad begins at the visitor center, located next to the parking lot. The visitor center contains several displays explaining the railroad's history, as well as a 20-minute introductory film, which I recommend watching to learn the historical background of the Portage Railroad. The historic site is free to visit.

Operating model of Inclined Plane #6

Once you're done and have a map, a boardwalk leads from the visitor center to the site of Inclined Plane #6, the uppermost plane on the east side of the summit. When the Portage Railroad was abandoned, all rails and equipment were scrapped; most of what exists today is reconstructed.

At the south end of the boardwalk, there is an overlook with interpretive signage. This was the upper end of Incline #6. A short section of the incline and the engine house have been reconstructed.

Interpretive signage for engine house

The Portage Railroad is a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark 

The reconstructed engine house

Walking west past the engine house, there is a short reconstructed section of the summit mule-drawn segment

Looking east toward the engine house

Looking west along the former line

At this location is a historic tavern, the Samuel Lemon House, which served travelers on the Portage Railroad. The first floor of the Lemon House has been restored and is open to the public during park hours.

Interior of the Lemon House.

At this point, I haven't really done any hiking. That was about to change. Returning east past the engine house, we reach the upper end of the "6 to 10 trail", which follows the eastern part of the railroad. Roughly 0.4 mile and 200 feet downhill is a historic road bridge that formerly crossed the railroad. Known today as the "Skew Arch Bridge", this was the only bridge built to cross the Allegheny Portage Railroad.

This trail is generally marked with National Parks Service logos on posts and trees. Generally gravel, there are some sections of mowed grass. The trail runs alongside the old Incline #6, but the incline's path is apparent.

Incline #6 from the trail

After a short downhill hike, we reach an overlook and interpretive plaque for the skew arch bridge.

The Skew Arch Bridge, located in the median of Old US Route 22

But you can certainly get closer. A mowed grass path leading left from the above sign connects to a gravel road. The 6 to 10 Trail crosses this road and proceeds through the woods, but the easiest way to get to the bridge is by turning right on the road and walking right across the westbound lanes of Old 22 to the bridge in the median.

Looking along road from trail. Old US 22 is in the background.

Looking up Incline #6 from gravel road

The median has a couple of parking spaces for people who prefer to drive here, as well as a large monument to the Allegheny Portage Railroad, erected at the railroad's centennial in 1934. Each side of the stone monument contains a plaque.

The image here is identical to the historical drawing at the beginning of this post

To the east of the monument is the Skew Arch Bridge, which carried what later became the William Penn Highway and US Route 22 across the Portage Railroad. When this section of 22 was widened (date unknown, but pre-1958), the old bridge was preserved in the median. In the 1980s, this was bypassed again about a mile to the north and, as such, there isn't much traffic through here.

Looking east at bridge

Pennsylvania historic signage

Historic plaque on bridge

Looking under bridge 

Abutment detail

Looking northeast across brdige

Looking east from bridge

Looking west along Incline #6. Engine house is in the distance.

While the bridge was cool, I had other things to do, so back to my car I went. I thought I saw a trail marker across Old 22 near the bridge and I was correct. With short steep sections leading down to Old 22 on either side, it's much easier to cross at the gravel road.

Looking back toward bridge from where trail "officially" crosses Old 22

Looking along 6 to 10 Trail from Old 22

Retracing my steps along the 6 to 10 trail and boardwalk to my car, it was a relatively easy climb that was made much harder by the weather. Temperatures near 90 degrees and high humidity does not make for easy hiking.

Looking up the trail next to the incline

Near the top of the trail

Relieved to in my air-conditioned car, I drove on, continuing my travels. But I'll definitely be back to this area, preferably on a cooler day. Way more to see around here and I just didn't have the time to do it justice.

Getting Here

The Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site is located at the Gallitzin interchange on US Route 22, between Altoona and Ebensburg. GPS devices may try to have you enter via Old 22; while the access road shows on maps, it is closed to vehicles and the only access to the parking lot is from Old 22 or Gallitzin.

Resources

Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site: Official website
Wikipedia: Allegheny Portage Railroad: Historic background

Snowshoeing in the Spa City: Saratoga Spa State Park

Island Spouter, one of the few geysers east of the Mississippi River
All photos mine

New York has several unique natural destinations, but few are more unique than Saratoga Spa State Park. Located within the city limits of Saratoga Springs, the park contains many interesting geologic features, including the only geysers in the United States east of the Mississippi River. The region's namesake mineral springs have long been visited for their alleged health benefits and the water bottled for sale. To combat overpumping of the springs, the area became a state reservation in 1909. Several of the spa buildings were built with New Deal funds in the 1930s. The spa area became a state park in 1962 and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1985.

We had a significant snowstorm last Friday, so I figured I'd spend some time Saturday playing in the snow. Most of the snow fell southwest of Albany, but I was unsure if roads would be plowed, so I decided to head north to Saratoga. Parked near the Roosevelt Baths, strapped on my snowshoes, and into the woods I went. I started down the Geyser Trail, taking it to the short, orange-blazed Springs Trail.

Trails generally looked like this. Geyser Trail near the Roosevelt Baths

The Springs Trail descends into the gorge carved by Geyser Creek, ending across from the education building. Turning right along the road, I crossed the creek and immediately turned right onto the Vale of Springs Trail. It isn't long before you pass this beauty on the right.

It's the cover photo again!

Yes, that's Island Spouter, one of the area's best-known springs. Like all of the springs, Island Spouter is carbonated mineral water. It also happens to be a geyser that shoots 10-15 feet into the air. The island is composed of tufa, a type of limestone created by mineral deposits from the spring.

Continuing down the trail (with Island Spouter to the right)

Once you're done admiring one of New York's most unique natural features, continue north along the trail. The narrow trail runs along the bank of the creek, eventually reaching a massive tufa deposit encroaching on the trail. This deposit was created by Orenda Spring, located up the cliff.

Orenda Spring's tufa dome

Closeup of the tufa dome

The tufa dome from the other side. That little ledge is the trail.

Past the tufa dome, we pass under a bridge leading to Saratoga Performing Arts Center and reach a stairway. Time to climb out of the gorge. Take a left at the top of the stairs, pass back under the bridge, and Orenda Spring is on the right.

Orenda Spring

Orenda is another of the major springs, but unlike Island Spouter, you can easily get to its water if you so desire.

Looking south from Orenda Spring

From up here, it is possible to see just how big the tufa deposit is. Continue south and we reach an overlook, where one can get another view of Island Spouter.

A short distance to the south, we get back to the road and the bridge. I turned left on the road and crossed the bridge again, but stayed alongside the road. A couple of springs are alongside the road.

Polaris Spring, located next to the road

Tallulah Spring is set back from the road

Tallulah Spring

A trail departs to the left a short distance south of Tallulah Spring. This trail leads to Ferndell Spring.

The trail winds along a creek, eventually reaching the spring, which was dry.

Ferndell Spring

I continued past the spring, turning left alongside a road. Another left led me back to my car, 1.6 miles and about 1:15 after I left. During tourist season, the state park can get overrun with people, but this time of year, it is peaceful enough to truly enjoy the area's natural beauty. Did I mention it's free outside of the summer season, too?

One more thing: Saratoga Spa State Park does rent snowshoes when snow is on the ground. Available at the park office, see website for more details.

Getting Here

Saratoga Spa State Park is located between US Route 9 and NY Route 50 in the southern part of Saratoga Springs. During the winter, one needs to enter the park via Avenue of the Pines or park at the SPAC lot along NY 50, as the southern entrances are closed. Winter parking is off of Roosevelt Drive and at the SPAC lot. There is an $8/vehicle entry fee between Memorial Day and Labor Day, as well as on weekends in May, September, and early October. 

Resources

Saratoga Spa State Park

South Beacon Mountain and Scofield Ridge

Beacon, Newburgh, and the bridge from the fire tower.
(All pictures mine)

South Beacon Mountain may be one of the most underrated hikes in New York. The trailhead is within the city limits of Beacon, but there are tons of ruins (including an abandoned incline railway), a fire tower, and the high point of Putnam County. If you look carefully, you can see the fire tower and ruins from the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge and the route of the incline railway is impossible to miss. Really easy to get all of these in a hike of around 6 miles (with most of the ascent being in the first mile out of the trailhead). That being said, it's a climb. From the trailhead to the summit of South Beacon Mountain and the fire tower is a vertical ascent of over 1,400 feet. Need to lose and regain a little bit to get over to the summit of Putnam County on Scofield Ridge. But definitely a climb I'd recommend making, as the views are stunning and there's quite a bit of history on this mountain.

The parking area at the corner of Wolcott Avenue (NY Route 9D) and Howland Avenue can hold a few dozen cars and contains portable toilets and a kiosk with trail maps. If the lot is full (likely on weekends when the weather is nice), ample parking is available on the side streets. But parking wasn't an issue when I showed up around 10:00 on a Thursday morning (yes, I did plan my class schedule so I'd have a day open to hike every week). The first 0.2 miles or so is a wide gravel path with a slight upgrade. Trail markers are RED. Soon, the ruins of the old Mount Beacon Incline Railway come into view.

Former incline railway station

Looking up the incline railway

When constructed, the Mount Beacon Incline Railway was the steepest incline railway in the world. It was abandoned in 1978 and added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1982. Groups are fundraising to rebuild the railway.

Oh, right, the trail

The trail begins to parallel what was the world's steepest incline railway with a long metal staircase. 100+ feet further above the Hudson River Estuary, the staircase ends and there's a sharp left turn away from the railway around an elevation of 400 feet.

The views start near the top of the stairs

A short distance and 100 vertical feet later, you're faced with a decision. Continue straight onto the yellow trail, or take a hairpin turn to the right and continue climbing on the red trail. You want the red trail, as yellow takes you around the mountain.

Yeah, it's steep. Keep climbing. It's worth it.

Getting closer...

If you keep climbing along the red trail, you'll reach the ruins of the Mount Beacon Casino and Incline Railway at around 1,200 feet, approximately 1 mile from the parking lot. There's roughly 1000 feet of vertical ascent from the parking lot to this point.

First, we reach the former powerhouse for the incline railway.

The powerhouse

Hoist mechanism 

Looking down at where people boarded/alighted

Continue a short distance further to reach the ruins of the Mount Beacon Casino.The Casino was once a major tourist attraction, with panoramic views of the Hudson Valley and Hudson Highlands. While the building is gone save its foundation, the view remains.

View of Beacon, Newburgh, and the bridge connecting them.
The Shawangunk Ridge is in the background.

Looking southwest

Looking south toward Storm King Mountain

Old steps

The casino once stood here

South corner of the foundation. Fire tower is at the top left.

View south toward the Hudson Highlands

If you want, you could turn back here, which is what most people do. I'm going to tell you to continue along the red trail, as the hardest part of the hike is over and the rest is a cakewalk. The first part of this trail is along an old road, but the trail diverges as the road heads north to the Beacon Reservoir. There's a slight descent into the col between North and South Beacon Mountains, but the climb soon resumes. Just under 2 miles from the parking lot is the junction with the white trail. You want to turn onto the white trail to get to the fire tower. It's really hard to miss the junction.

That's the junction, white trail diverges to the right.
I counted no fewer than 7 white trail markers here.

The white trail climbs moderately, but it's a short climb.

Compass painted near the summit

The fire tower

Soon you're standing on the summit of South Beacon Mountain, not even 1/4 mile from the red trail. The summit and fire tower are a short distance off of the main trail, but very east to find. South Beacon (elevation 1,610 feet) is the highest peak in the Hudson Highlands and far above the Hudson River less than 2 miles to your west. 

Looking toward Beacon

Looking toward Storm King

As if the view from the ground isn't good enough, the fire tower gets you higher.

Beacon, Newburgh, and the bridge from the fire tower

Looking south

Looking east

Looking north at the Beacon Reservoir

I would not be surprised if you could see the Manhattan skyline from up here on a clear day. Sadly, the day of my hike was not clear.

Once I was done bracing myself against the day's high winds, I made my way down the tower and retraced my steps to the red trail. Unless you want to do a long loop or are a county highpointer, you'll probably turn left to return to the trailhead. Not much interesting stuff beyond this other than the high point of Putnam County. turning right at the junction to continue on. The red trail ends shortly later, and I turned right on the yellow trail to continue to the Putnam high point. Some minor scrambling awaited me on the yellow trail as I neared my destination about half a mile from the end of the red trail. The high point of Scofield Ridge (elevation 1,540 feet) is pretty darn easy to find because there's a giant yellow X on the exposed rock.

X marks the spot

To make your life easier if you're a highpointer, it is where the trail has a 90 degree turn, the trail going NE and SE from the point, approximately 1,500 feet due east of the South Beacon fire tower. 

Looking west toward the fire tower

View east from Scofield Ridge

Scofield Ridge isn't a "liner" (high point on a county line", but it's darn close, being less than 200 feet inside Putnam County.

From here, I could have continued around to make a loop, but I had other plans for the day, so I retraced my steps back to the red trail and down to my car. Aren't a ton of amazing hikes within the limits of a city in New York, but trust me, this one is worth it, even if there are crowds.

Getting Here

This is one of the easier trails in the region to get to. NY Route 9D is a relatively major road and it's not too far from Interstate 84 and the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge. Plenty of services nearby if you need a last-minute snack or the like. The popular Breakneck Ridge trailhead is a few miles south along 9D, but that trailhead will be closed until mid-2019 for improvements.

Resources

• Hudson Highlands State Park. The majority of the trail lies within this park.
• Avenza Maps Navigation App. The NY Department of Parks, Recreation, and Historic Preservation makes all of their maps available for free using this app. The maps have GPS tracking and I make use of them when hiking in a state park.
• Hike the Hudson Valley's Mount Beacon Page. This is the main hiking resource I used to find out what I was getting into.